True Blue Fiber Friends

There is a general scientific principle that many fiber artists are unaware of; protein fibers like acid and cellulose fibers love alkaline. Why should the average dyer, knitter, spinner or weaver care about this fact? An understanding of how colors and fibers react to different solutions will enhance our fiber experiences by allowing our yarns and garments to work to their full potential in their element.

Cellulose fibers such as cotton, ramie, rayon, linen (and most synthetics) prefer alkalinity. This is why all household laundry detergent is base (alkaline.) Blue dye also sets better in a base solution because it is a large molecule. Natural Indigo actually never penetrates the fabric, only sits on the surface. Today, acid wash jeans are popular. Washing blue-dyed cotton in acids degrades both the dye color and the fabric.

Protein fibers from any animal, such as wool, alpaca, cashmere, silk and even our own hair, prefer a slightly acidic solution. Our hair shampoos and skin products often add citric acid to smooth skin and follicles and reduce split ends. When we care for wools and such, a plain shampoo is much better than laundry detergent. If you are trying to full (or felt) wool, detergent helps "rough up" the follicles so that they felt faster. Care instructions for wool often mention a quick rinse in a vinegar solution after washing to restore softness and shine.

By the same token, red dyes tend to be much more colorfast on wool or with an acid- setting agent. Just think of the red bleeding out of cotton garments. The natural dye colors of Cochineal red and pokeberry fuchsia can only be obtained by adding some sort of acid (tartaric or acetic respectively) to the dye bath.
If we keep these basic principles in mind when caring for our garments, all of our handmade goodness will last longer.